Necessity is the mother of invention. And here, living in the desert, failure was not an option. Israeli scientists rose to the task by creating the world's foremost water management technology. We have a historical precedent for this. Moses was able to get enough water out of a rock to quench the thirst of a nation. We're just doing it a bit differently this time.
Here are just a few activities happening over Pesach in this beautiful, mystical town. The best way to see Tsfat? Just wander along the cobblestoned alleys of the Old City, pop into the ancient shuls and marvel at the sweeping views of the mountains and the Kinneret. Uncover Tsfat’s History at Beit Hameiri This fascinating museum is free for you to peruse over chol hameod. Yehezkel Hameiri, a journalist and researcher, spent 20 years restoring this five-story building and adding many antiquities from Tsfat plus photographs, archives, paintings and collections of old timers’ tales. There are also many museums, galleries and archeological parks all over the north that offer free admission during chol hamoed. Beit Hameiri, 158 Keren Hayesod Street 04-6971307, 04-6921939 Tsfati Musical Hallel If you like Carlebach-style prayer, Tzfat is the place to be for chol hameod. If you like to play, bring your instruments to The House of Love and Prayer and the Beirav synagogues. Many people bring guitars, flutes, violins and drums. They sing and dance, then sing some more. Celebrate the holiday of freedom with Livnot If you’re between 21 and 30 years and are looking for an inspiring Pesach experience, check out the Livnot Program. Running from April 20-26, participants will go hiking, volunteer in the community and be part of a festive Passover seder that you won’t forget! Fine Kosher for Pesach Dining You won’t go hungry if you’re visiting Tzfat over chol hamoed. Several great restaurants are kashered for the chag. These include the Art Café, Gan Eden, Araleh’s and Café Bagdad. Wine and Cheese Don’t miss a visit to Kadosh Cheeses, which is kasher for Pesach. Run by the Kadosh family for seven generations, they specialize in making salty Tzfati cheese, blue cheese kashkaval and pecorino. They also make the cheese on the premises and are happy to sit and chat over a Turkish coffee. Described as one of the best kept secrets in Tsfat, the Abuhav winery is kosher for Pesach and open to visitors. It is a beautifully restored stone buildings with sweeping views of Meiron. Check out this video to see the transformation. And…the wines are exceptional. Mimouna - A Moroccan Farewell On the last evening of Pesach (April 30) after chag is out, come celebrate Mimouna with the North African Jewish community of Tsfat. Many families open their homes for tea, mofletta (a traditional pancake), nuts and dates. In an effort to raise public awareness of the beneficial use of medical marijuana, a plantation near Tzfat is now offering tours and free samples. One city official was quoted as saying “It’s high time that people realize the strong connection between Tzfat and marijuana”. The plantation, a government approved medical marijuana farm in the hills above Safed is at the forefront of medical marijuana research. Among the plants grown there, one strain is said to have the strongest psychoactive effect in the world. Others, known for anti-inflammatory benefits have no psychotropic affects whatsoever. The response from local residents, among the first to line up for the tour, has been overwhelming. Company officials could not be reached so it remains unclear as to how long the tours will continue to operate. Israeli researchers say that cannabis can be used to treat a number of diseases and conditions. Cancer patients often use marijuana to ease pain and improve appetite loss. It is also being prescribed for various neurological conditions and PTSD. One of the reasons for Israeli success in the cannabis industry is that Israeli authorities allow growers to work with scientific institutions in clinical trials and development of strains that treat a variety of illnesses and disorders. Action hero Van Damme came to pay a visit with Eyal Reiss, director of the Tzfat Kabbalah Center. As part of his five day visit to Israel, Van Damme came to Safed in search of spiritual advice in the wake of the terrorist attacks that rocked Brussels earlier this month. The Belgian born action star spent the day exploring the city, visiting the famous Abuhav synagogue and learning Torah. He has drawn criticism for his outspoken support of Israel. When we travel to northern Israel, there are many must-see sights and must-do activities. There is so much to do that one could spend many vacations in the north and still not see it all. But what about the hidden secrets? There are many beautiful spots in the Galilee that are serendipitous. All you need is a car and a sense of adventure. Last Friday, en route to Tsfat for Shabbat, we took a drive up north. Being early March, the rolling hills were verdant green. Red kalaniot and mauve cyclamen formed bright patches on the hillside. We drove to Yodfat, a moshav just south of Karmiel that is nestled on the Atzmon Mountain range. Yodfat, also known as Jotapata, was once a village populated by Jews at the end of the 2nd century BCE. During these times, the Hasmonean kings were broadening their territory northward. It was a large settlement when, in 67 CE, it was destroyed by the Romans. Josephus Flavius describes the siege in detail in his book The Wars of the Jews. Led by Emperor Vespasian plus by three legions, the Romans battled to overthrow Yodfat, yet were met by resistance. The Jews held out for 47 days until Yodfat was burned to the ground. It was the month of Tammuz. About 40,000 Jews were killed while 1,200 women and children were captured and enslaved. Now visitors can walk to the top of a hill were the town once stood and wander around the area. Archeological excavations have uncovered ancient cisterns, part of walls and a mass grave with human remains. Yodfat is a tranquil place where the moshav residents grow flowers. They run a flower bulb nursery that exports millions of bulbs worldwide. In fact, Yodfat has developed anenomes that are hand-pollinated, a first in the business of cut flowers.
In English, this farm is called Goats with the Wind. It is tranquil, gentle and a world apart. Go for a visit. If it is not spring (goat birthing season), you can buy some fresh cheeses. And if you would like to eat in the restaurant, you must reserve in advance.
Tsfat in one of the few places in Israel that is blessed with four seasons. Perched at 900 metres, making it the highest city in Israel, Tsfat’s winters and summers tend to be more extreme than the rest of the country. Let’s take a look at the winter. Yes, winter means rain in Tsfat. It can also mean fog, snow and wind. And…it can mean warmth and sunshine, so be prepared for anything! The rain falls intermittently between December and February so if you are planning a trip, dress for winter and bring a raincoat. If you are staying at Villa Tiferet, there is heating in all of the rooms and a fireplace stocked with wood in the living room. There is nothing like relaxing by the cozy fireside at Villa Tiferet, sinking into the couches and watching the reflection of the flames flickering across the stone dome above. Winter means hot homemade soups in the restaurants on the midrechov and cradling steaming cappuccinos. It gives you time to wander through the galleries and old synagogues without the crowds. If you have a few dry days, try hiking. The first rains awaken the plants and within days, the anemones, cyclamen, irises, lupines, daisies and narcissi poke out of rocks and carpet the surrounding valleys. Another great winter pastime is visiting the local wineries and sampling the newest vintages. As fewer tourists travel in the winter, the wine makers generally have more time to sit and chat and sip. There are also a few chocolate factories up north, so if you have a car and a sweet tooth, venture forth! Visit Tsfat in the winter, be it for a Shabbat or weekday visit. You may feel as if you are in Tuscany, or, it if snows, Canada! It is a special opportunity not to be missed. And since winter in Israel is only 10 weeks long, it could be easy to miss! If you decide to come up, please stay at Villa Tiferet and snuggle up by the fireside! Z’man Simchateinu. A time for rejoicing. If you think Tsfat is lively in the summer during Klezer, try visiting during Sukkot. There aren’t the ebbing crowds of visitors in August, yet there is a true feel of celebration. During the holiday, you can always find a nice viewpoint (like the roof of Villa Tiferet) and play the game of spotting how many sukkahs you can see in this mountainside town. They perch on rooftops, cling to apartment balconies and nestle in courtyards. Ooh and Ahh Guests climb up the stairs to the large rooftop of Villa Tiferet. They ‘ooh and ahh’ over the view, then often say, “What a perfect place for a Sukkah.” We nod yes and no. Although the roof is large and airy, it can be windy at times and it’s a few steps too far from the kitchen for this cook’s liking. We have designed two sukkahs for Villa Tiferet. We have one in the centre of the main courtyard that seats 10 under the schach. And we have a second neighboring Sukkah above the cozy Morrocan pillows. This is our sleeping Sukkah, our napping Sukkah and the Sukkah for an overflow of guests. Our sukkah is literally three steps from the action of the kitchen so serving food and clearing dishes is a breeze. We can gaze at the stars twinkling in that black velvet Tsfat sky and often sing zmirot along with our neighbours who belt out their favorite Sefardi tunes from their sukkah. If you go for a walk in the evening, you’ll hear song and laughter coming from multiple sukkahs in the Old City and the Artists’ Quarter. You can see shadows of guests lifting a glass, children playing at the table and often catch snippets of a dvar Torah. Early morning, people head off to shul carrying their lulav and etrog like prized jewels. The synagogues are packed with festive shul goers who wave their lulavs with utmost intensity. During chol hamoed, there are several musical hallels throughout town. Check out the House of Love and Prayer and the Beirav. If you play an instrument that is portable, bring it along and join in. We have danced and twirled accompanied by violins, guitars, drums, accordions and flutes. Hallel in Tsfat is beyond uplifting and may even take you through till lunch! Being in Tsfat over Sukkot also enables you to enjoy the best of the north. The weather is breezy and can be refrshingly slightly cool, so hiking is a great choice. There is Nahal Amud just below the old Tsfat cemetery. If you have a car, head to Yehudiah in the Golan or to Montfort in the northwest. There is also horseback riding nearby, jeep tours and the refreshing Kinneret. Chag HaAsif One of the themes of Sukkot is agriculture. Chag Ha’Asif means holiday of gathering. Autumn in the north is the time to gather the grapes. If you decide to visit one of the local wineries, you may be able to see the grapes being crushed, their sweet juice then separated from the seeds to create a new vintage. It’s also time to collect olives. You will see people laying down blankets on the ground and bashing the trees, causing the olives to fall. This is a family event where children and grandparents join in the harvest. A Time of Bounty Sukkot is a time of bounty, rejoicing and of appreciating family, friends and the beauty of the abundance we have in Israel. And there is no better place to experience this than in Safed. Nothing stirs the soul more than the wail of a clarinet or the cry of a violin. Add to this a black starry night and a fresh summer breeze. It is no mistake that Safed is home to the largest festival of Jewish soul music in the world. This spiritual mountaintop town, home of deep Kabbalist teachings, is usually very serene and calm. But every August, the town hosts the International Klezmer Festival and during these days, sleepy Tsfat is swept off its feet. Klezmer is a magical mix of Gypsy music, Ashkenazi tunes and Hassidic Eastern melodies. The word Klezmer is Hebrew for musical instruments (kley meaning vessel and zemer meaning song). The music combines the moving sounds of a clarinet with those of a fiddle, a bass and often, an accordion and drums, sounding like a human voice wailing, crying, laughing. It is completely entrancing. People can sit spellbound with tears in their eyes one moment, and be compelled to dance in the next. This year, the 28th annual festival will be held from August 18-20. Tens of thousands of visitors from Israel and abroad come to Tsfat to be part of the happenings. All of the concerts are free and are held on open-air stages across town. The main stage features the biggest names in Klezmer and is televised across the country. Smaller, more intimate stages are nestled beside cobbled alleys in the Old City, where the sound of klezmer echoes across stone. The largest stage is at the Saraya, featuring famous Israeli musicians. Here, dancing is a must. We do not yet have a schedule, but last year, there were big names including Aharon Raizel, Daniel Zamir, Eyal Shiloah, Shalom Alechem Vienna, Meril Reznik and Musa Berlin. Aside from music, there are vendors set up along the main street which is closed to traffic for the event. The streets of Tsfat and the Saraya center parking transform into an artists’ shuk for the three nights of klezmer. And of course there is food. Lots of goodies: from shipudim to falafel to fresh fruit juices, French crepes and much more. For children, there is a special stage set up with magic shows, story telling and an opportunity for kids to try out the Klezmer instruments. The music starts each night at 8 pm and every hour there is a new band on each stage with the evening winding down at 1 pm. Aside from the official stages, every street corner or stone seat is an opportunity for a musician to sit down and play. There are many spontaneous concerts happening all over town all night. After the music winds down and the vendors pack up, the International Masters Classes begin. In these classes, students come from all over Israel to learn with International masters and the public is invited to watch. This year, the classes will be held in the medical school from August 22-27. There will also be free performances held across Tsfat. Here a few tips for planning a trip to the Klezmer: If you are coming by car, make sure you arrive in town before 5 pm as the roads close up tight. Buses still operate. If you arrive after the roads are closed, you can park in a designated lot outside Safed and be shuttled into town. Want to stay overnight? Book a place soon as the zimmers and hotels fill up. If you are a large family or group, consider Villa Tiferet. You can hear the music of the concerts from the rooftop and have a good view of the fireworks each night at 10pm. Want to take a break form the crowds. The courtyard with its splashing fountain is a good place to relax and recharge before heading out again. Klezmer 2015. Explore. Bring along your own instrument, a sense of adventure and open your spirit. This is Safed. “I dream my painting and I paint my dream.” Vincent Van Gogh We just painted the exterior of Villa Tiferet. It is now the color of the Tzfat summer sky. Deep, deep blue. At a certain time of day, looking up at our freshly painted walls, then above to the Tzfat sky, it is almost seemless. To me, the walls are a now a sort of calm reference to the azure open skies of the Tsfat I love so much. The blue walls are are like a canvas. I compare the morning light of the sky in relationship to the walls and then the early evening sky when the sun is about to set . The colors are similar, yet subtly different, depending on the angle of the sun. I feel as if I am on A Greek island. I feel as if I am in dream. Earth and sky mingle, then change subtly. I feel as I am floating in total relaxation. Tsfat does this. It opens our eyes and our hearts and our minds. We breathe in the fresh air and we sink into a state of tranquility. Maybe this hue, the traditional color of old Tsfat walls when the ancient mystics walked the cobbled streets, is a hint of the Kabbalistic concept of Tiferet,. This sefira represents a harmonious blend of colors that produce beauty. Visit Tsfat and stay at Villa Tiferet. Sit on the pillows in the courtyard with your morning coffee, the morning sun’s rays tickling the stone courtyard, and see where wall meets sky. Come late afternoon, lie in the rooftop hammock just as the sun dips below the mountains. Look up. Starlings and eagles buffet in the fresh, warm breeze. The sky is now a deeper blue, merging with amber, copper and pink. Below, the Moroccan lights cast shadows of from the grape vine across the walls. Calm, quiet, serene. Tiferet. Come see for yourself. |
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July 2020
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